Andrew
Megas-Russell
climber | guide | educator
Hello
I’m a rock climbing guide and instructor based in the Front Range of Colorado. Climbing has been my passion for decades and sharing my passion with others is my pursuit. I have dedicated over 15 years of my life to working in the outdoor education and guiding industry. As a member of the AMGA National Office Team, I pride myself in managing the Single Pitch and Climbing Wall Instructor Programs.
American Mountain Guides Association
Certified Rock Guide
climbing
achievements
Big Wall: (Yosemite)
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El Capitan
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Nose in a day, 5.10, C2, 28 p - 16 hours
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West Face Leaning Tower
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Rope solo in a day, 5.7, C3, 8 p - 15.5 hours car-car
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Half Dome
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Regular NW Face 5.10 C1, 23 p - 12 hours
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Trad:
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Ariana, The Diamond
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5.12a Grade IV, Redpoint
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Original Route, Rainbow Wall Red Rock
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5.12a Grade IV, Redpoint*
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Cloud Tower, Red Rock
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5.11d Grade III, Onsight
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Sport:
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Pump-o-rama 5.13a Redpoint
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Lucid Dreaming 5.12d Redpoint (3rd go)
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Pretty Hate Machine 5.12c Redpoint
My Story
I was brought up in a small town in New Hampshire where my parents emphasized character building experiences as an important part of my upbringing. Climbing trees with the neighbors was my first introduction to heights. Being dropped off to summer camp each year and learning to ski at a young age helped shape an appreciation for outdoor experiences. These experiences were helpful in shaping my path as an outdoor educator as I soon stepped into the roles of camp counselor and assistant snowboard instructor in my early teens.
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The start of my climbing career began in the late ‘90s, as an angsty teen climbing small mossy, granite cliffs of southern New Hampshire in tennis shoes, narrowly escaping death with my father by my side.
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During my attendance at Green Mountain College in Vermont, I spent a semester at NOLS Southwest, in 2005, which opened my eyes to the vast western landscape. I really began to hone my craft as a climber these years in the Adirondacks of upstate New York. This was also when I first became a member of the AMGA and took the Top Rope Site Manager Course (now has evolved to the SPI Course). This was my first glimpse into professional climbing instruction.
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Upon graduating with a B.A. in Recreation, I sought meaningful outdoor education work and become an instructor at Evoke Therapy (formerly known as Second Nature Entrada), wilderness therapy program in Utah. On these off shifts my climbing really began to blossom with ascents of my first Grade IV and V rock climbs. Zion, Yosemite, Red Rock and Joshua Tree were my training grounds.
After working 55 field weeks at Evoke, I felt prepared to apply for a NOLS instructor course in 2009. I spent most my NOLS career splitting time between fieldwork (accruing over 100 NOLS weeks) and in-town work as the Southwest Special Projects Coordinator. These formative years were spent facilitating 30 day expeditions, some times back to back, while working winters at NOLS Southwest in Tucson. Some days I wore many hats, supervising field faculty, while then plunging toilets and later running off to put up first ascents in Cochise Stronghold.
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I complimented my work with NOLS by part time guiding for various climbing schools across the west. One that was most steady was Colorado Mountain School. In 2015 I earned my American Mountain Guides Association, Rock Guide Certification. Throughout my 20's and early 30's I estimate having climbed 100's of multi-pitch routes and sleeping on the ground over 1,500 nights!
After a decade of work with NOLS, it was time to resign and embark on a new chapter. Having met my life partner at NOLS, we shared a similar value of living simply and climbing as much as possible. After buying a piece of junk 1961 travel trailer and then spending way too much time renovating it, we both hit the road in Tela for a year's time. While she worked at Yosemite Search and Rescue, I spent many days passing off meals to her as she got called to the next SAR. I enjoyed being a SAR husband, but I still sought greater meaning in life beyond baking muffins in our camper and going rock climbing.
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My sabbatical, if you would call it, concluded in 2019 when I was hired as the AMGA Climbing Instructor Program Manager. I have been passionately carrying the program forward since then. Current day, I live with my partner and our two cats (one of which can do tricks and acts like a dog) in our lovely old home. Home ownership has been a delight, but I try not to get too distracted by house projects and prioritize time with clients at the many local world class climbing destinations scattered around the Front Range.
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Climb on - Andrew